Clutch Pedal Install: Fiero Archism #6
First of all, lets take a look at the differences between a steel and Aluminum pedal.
This is the Alum. Pedal:
& this is the good steel pedal....
On the Alum pedal notice how the "U" shaped bracket is bent to where it is closer on the top as opposed to the bottom. Also notice how the axis of the pin on the left is nolonger parallel to the axis ot the fulcrum at the top.
On with the Archism:
Anyone Can Do It.
Another posting will discuss the symptoms of Clutch pedal problems.
There are other reasons you may be having clutch or shifting problems with your Fiero. This pedal replacement cures the MOST common cause (95%). Even if your problem is not directly related to the Pedal right now, you still need at some point to replace the Aluminum pedal with the steel pedal.
This is going to be quite detailed and this one set of instructions is, hopefully written to cover all years of Fieros. Those with automatics or those with no love for my favorite car may want to read this just so they can show their friends how smart they are. You are not allowed to delete this, by penalty of law.
Parts needed:
The clutch pedals are no longer available from GM but The Fiero Store 1-800-FIEROGT is reproducing them for you.
Also may need: (depending on year)
A bushing for the Banjo 3/8" ID X 1/2" OD with one lip. hardware store maybe $ 1.00
Note: using this bushing will prevent you from having to buy the new $ 45 Banjo the dealer is gonna try to sell you.
Two 3/8" ID flat washers hardware store maybe $ .10
Definitions:
Pedal: That thing down there by your feet.
Banjo:
Bushing: At connection of pedal & Banjo. Looks like this:
NOTE: I have found that a great source for the bushings is at you local speed shop. You can buy the Hurst Shifter Bushing Repair kit and have enough extra correct size bushings to last thru your next 5 Fieros.
Washer: At connection of pedal & Banjo. Looks like this _____ laying down
Pivot bolt: Long bolt on which pedals pivot looks like this H===========\\\\\
Pivot spring: A redundant spring that wraps around the pedal at the pivot point. This spring is not to be used on the replacement pedal.
To replace the pedal you will need the following tools
13mm socket
15mm socket
socket ratchet
short 3 to 4" socket extension
needle nose pliers
15mm end wrench
Drop cord or other light
Working position:
Prone, laying on back, push seat back all the way or removed, kick off shoes put feet on seat back....take tools & light with you.
Once in position:
1) Remove retaining clip holding banjo to the pedal and slide banjo off pedal.
2) Disconnect the cruse control switch from the pedal, if any.
3) With 15 mm tools remove nut from pivot bolt.
4) Slide pivot bolt out about half of it's length & far enough to disengage the clutch pedal but not the brake pedal.
5) This step will save you a lot of work. Way up inside there on the drivers side of the assembly, you will see a "U" shaped bracket. (Approx. 1" wide Strap steel looking thing) it is held onto the assembly by 2 - 13mm bolts. To make this an easy job unscrew those 2 bolts 6 or 8 turns DO NOT REMOVE THEM, they are real hard to get back in.
6) To remove pedal from the car work it/pull it down. You will encounter some resistance to this action caused by the pivot spring. Cut/pull/bend that spring just get it out of there. Trust me the spring is a throw away. This position is supported by a 1986 service bulletin issued when the new replacement pedals came out.
7) Once you have the pedal in hand you can get out of the car.
8) Transfer the greasy pivot pin and 2 plastic bushings from the old pedal to the new one. A little dab of grease can be used on it if necessary.
9) You will notice that when comparing the new & old pedals that the pins on the pedals where the banjo attaches are different sizes (in most cases).
10) You will also notice that the banjo (which is still in the car) has a large 5/8" hole in it. In some cases it has a bushing in it that sizes it down to 3/8"
11) Your goal, is to assure through the use of bushings that the OD of the pin on the pedal and the ID of the banjo hole are the same size. YOU DO NOT WANT ANY PLAY HERE.
12) Re-install new pedal in the reverse order as removal with the exception of reinstalling the banjo onto the pedal, that is #13.
13) Re-install the banjo to the pedal making sure that the banjo loop (hole) is UP like it is in the banjo illustration above.
14) Now the only thing left to do is very important also. Assure that there is no left/right movement of the banjo on the pedal pin. Use flat washers to keep that movement to a minimum.
You be done
ONE FINAL NOTE: Some people have the same alum. pedal symptoms but have a steel pedal. I have seen one case where the steel pedal had a similar problem and when replaced with a new steel pedal the problem was cured.
LAST FINAL NOTE: Some factory built '87 & '88 Fieros were miss-assembled and the banjo was put onto the pedal up-side-down. Make sure your banjo is mounted as described in #13 above.